Best Rocket League Camera Settings

Although you might not think too much about them, camera settings can make the world of difference to your game. It might surprise you to learn that, if you are still rocking the default camera settings, the game might be slightly harder for you.

But when you open the dashboard to change your settings, you’re faced with a confusing array of numbers and settings that make little sense to you. Don’t worry! I’m here to help you out!

Before that, though, there is something you need to do right now. Something all Rocket League players can agree on: turn that camera shake off right now…  

Basic setup

Camera settings are subjective. I find it helpful to have a base starting point. From there, you can tweak it to your own personal taste.

The camera settings that I would suggest are:

  • Field of view: 110
  • Distance: 270
  • Height: 90
  • Angle: -4
  • Stiffness: 0.40
  • Swivel speed: 5
  • Transition speed: 1.20

I use these settings because they feel balanced and it feels like I always have a good angle.

Field of view is maxed out to 110. Pretty much everyone uses 110. This affects the size of your field of vision.

Distance controls how far your camera is behind your car.  270 doesn’t feel too far away from the car, so I can still control the ball well. It’s also not too close, so I can still see what is going on around me.

Height controls how high your camera is positioned above the ball. At 90, the camera is high enough that I have a good view of the ball indicator on the ground. But at the same time, I can still see much of the field and everything in front of me.

Angle controls the pitch of your camera relative to your car. I use a -4 so I can still see where my car is positioned under the ball. But also, I can still see over the ball enough to know if someone is challenging me.

Stiffness controls how rigidly your camera follows your car. I use a 0.4 due to the fact that it keeps my car steadily in the middle of my screen and doesn’t veer off in any direction. Stiffness is very important and I would suggest tweaking it until it’s right for you.

Swivel speed controls how fast your camera rotates when you move your right joystick. This is all personal preference. I use 5. I want it to move quickly and efficiently.

Transition speed determines how quickly you switch from ball cam to car cam. I use 1.20 as this allows the transition to happen quickly, but not so fast that I’m losing information on the field. 

Sensitivity settings

Sensitivity settings are also very important. They decide how quickly or slowly your controller reacts when you make an input.

Once again, this is subjective, so I’ll give you a base and you can tweak from there.

Basic setup:

  • Steering sensitivity: 1.40
  • Aerial sensitivity: 1.40
  • Controller deadzone: 0.05
  • Dodge deadzone: 0.70

The way these are set up, my car doesn’t flail out of control when I enter the air. Also, it doesn’t feel like my car turns or pitches too fast. 

On the opposite end of the spectrum, I also used these settings for a while.

Alternative higher-sensitivity setup:

  • Steering sensitivity: 1.75
  • Aerial sensitivity: 1.75
  • Controller deadzone: 0.05
  • Dodge deadzone: 0.70

This sensitivity will make your car move faster in the air but it’s a little harder to control than the first settings.

Controller bindings

Did you know that some professionals still use default keybindings? Well, just because the pros do it, doesn’t always mean you should too. I have a very different control scheme and for a reason. Let me explain. 

Since I use a PS4 controller, these will be the buttons I go by.

By default, your right thumb will have to do multiple things: jump, boost, air roll, drift, and switch cameras. This can be confusing at first and may cause mistakes early on.

I have simplified my controls so my one thumb isn’t trying to do five things at once. By default, your boost button is set to “O”. I switched that to “R1”. Because your thumb has to press the “X” button to jump, switching boost to “R1” is one less thing your thumb has to do which will make for more clean inputs. Also, it made my aerials so much faster since I wasn’t trying to hold boost and hit jump with the same thumb.

I personally switched my air roll button to “L1” along with the drift button. Since your drift doesn’t affect you in the air and your air roll doesn’t affect you on the ground, these two can be bound to the same button without affecting one another. Again, switching this from the default “square” button takes more stress off of your right thumb. What I have personally done is bind my “Air roll left” to “square”. This makes half flips much easier.

Everything else, I left on default. With these keybindings, all your right thumb now has to do is, jump, switch cams, and occasionally, air roll left. I really saw improvements in my gameplay upon these switches. I’ve been using these keybindings for 3-4 years and I won’t be switching any time soon. 

Pro Camera Settings and sensitivities 

Now we will take a look at a couple of the pros and see what they are using.

Fun fact: the camera settings and sensitivity that I use, are not mine. They belong to the Season 8 World Champion GarrettG from the team NRG. I seem to like his settings the most.

I have switched camera settings multiple times, jumping from one pros settings to the next. Here are my favorites from the pros out of the last 5 years: 


Field of view: 110                   Steering sensitivity: 1.40

Distance: 270                         Aerial sensitivity: 1.40

Height: 90                              Controller deadzone: 0.05

Angle: -4                                 Dodge deadzone: 0.70

Stiffness: 0.40

Swivel speed: 5

Transition speed: 1.2


Field of view: 110                    Steering sensitivity: 1.30

Distance: 270                          Aerial sensitivity: 1.30

Height: 110                              Controller deadzone: 0.05

Angle: -4                                  Dodge deadzone: 0.70

Stiffness: 0.40

Swivel speed: 4.70

Transition speed: 1.2


Field of view: 110                    Steering sensitivity: 1.0

Distance: 300                          Aerial sensitivity: 1.0

Height: 130                             Controller deadzone: 0.10

Angle: -4                                 Dodge deadzone: 0.90

Stiffness: 1

Swivel speed: 3.60

Transition speed: 1

One thing we can learn just by looking at these is that there are no “best camera settings”. It’s all personal preference.

I would suggest giving them all a shot and tweaking them to your liking. 

Good luck!

Good luck playing around with your settings. Remember: it’ll be worth it in the end!

If you are still having trouble controlling your car or finding the right camera settings for yourself, consider booking a coaching session on GamersRdy or enrolling in one of our Rocket League courses


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